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Fashion Studies

Fashion & Migration/s: Opening Social and Material Landscapes

University Room: Omid & Gisel Kordestani Rooftop Conference Center (Q-801)
6 rue du Colonel Combes
Thursday, December 5, 2024 - 18:00 to 19:30

One in 30 persons is a migrant today (1). The movement of people, whether forced or voluntary, is a fact 鈥 that has shaped our world since the onset of humanity. Current climate, economic, humanitarian, political and conflict crises fuel migrations. People leave their homes to save their lives and livelihoods. Yet, migration is increasingly framed and perceived as a threat, a danger mainly to destination countries, currently global Western countries in particular, which forget their colonial pasts and profits, and their own histories of migration.
The global fashion system inherently relies on flows of people, but also materials and skills. While fashion as an industry has effectively been built on successive waves of migration, it has contributed considerably to the environmental crisis that, in turn, has brought forth millions of climate migrants (2). Dress is also an intimate experience for migrants, as they are confronted with the loss of their personal belongings, material scarcity, and trauma.

This research seminar series proposes fashion as a lens to better understand contemporary and historical migration processes, and to consider how fashion mirrors or potentially challenges current political discourses. Fashion & Migration/s opts for a multifaceted approach to explore the entangled connections between these two parameters鈥 through experiences, objects, spaces & places, times, skills & techniques. Deliberately transversal, bi-lingual and multidisciplinary, it bridges theory and practice, and brings together academics, designers, curators and artists. As a starting point, Fashion & Migration/s is anchored in material culture, in the affective quality of objects inviting us to visualize, materialize and investigate the lives of people on the move.

Mode & Migration/s : Ouvrir les paysages sociaux et mat茅riels
Une personne sur 30 est aujourd'hui un migrant (1). La circulation des personnes, qu'elle soit forc茅e ou volontaire, a fa莽onn茅 notre monde depuis le d茅but de l'humanit茅. Les crises climatiques, 茅conomiques, humanitaires, politiques et les conflits actuels alimentent les migrations. Les gens quittent leur foyer pour sauver leur vie et leurs moyens de subsistance. Pourtant, la migration est de plus en plus pr茅sent茅e et per莽ue comme une menace - un danger ressenti principalement par les pays d'accueil et plus particuli猫rement aujourd'hui par les pays occidentaux, qui oublient leur pass茅 colonial et leurs profits, ainsi que leur propre histoire migratoire.
Le syst猫me mondial de la mode repose intrins猫quement sur les flux de personnes, mais aussi de mat茅riaux et de comp茅tences. Si la mode en tant qu'industrie s'est effectivement construite sur des vagues successives de migration, elle a aussi consid茅rablement contribu茅 脿 la crise environnementale qui a engendr茅 des millions de migrants climatiques (2). Par ailleurs, l'habillement repr茅sente une exp茅rience intime pour les migrants, qui sont confront茅s 脿 l鈥檃bandon et 脿 la perte de leurs biens personnels, 脿 la p茅nurie mat茅rielle et au traumatisme, 脿 l鈥檈nfouissement de leurs savoir-faire et comp茅tences au profit d鈥檜n emploi ou d鈥檜ne activit茅 inconnu pour eux 脿 leur arriv茅e dans le pays d鈥檃ccueil, 脿 la rencontre avec des cultures vestimentaires qu鈥檌ls doivent apprendre 脿 conna卯tre.

Cette s茅rie de s茅minaires de recherche propose d'utiliser la mode comme un prisme pour mieux comprendre les processus migratoires contemporains et historiques, et d'examiner comment la mode refl猫te ou remet potentiellement en question les discours politiques actuels. Fashion & Migration/s opte pour une approche 脿 multiples facettes afin d'explorer les connexions enchev锚tr茅es entre ces deux param猫tres - 脿 travers des exp茅riences, des objets, des espaces et des lieux, des 茅poques, des savoir-faire et des techniques. D茅lib茅r茅ment transversal, bilingue et pluridisciplinaire, il jette un pont entre la th茅orie et la pratique et r茅unit des universitaires, des designers, des conservateurs et des artistes. Comme point de d茅part, Fashion & Migration/s est ancr茅 dans la culture mat茅rielle, dans la qualit茅 affective des objets qui nous invitent 脿 visualiser, mat茅rialiser et enqu锚ter sur la vie des personnes en mouvement.

(1) https://www.iom.int/about-migration (3.9.2024)
(2) Hiller Connel, Kim Y. & LeHew, Melody L. A. (2022) 'Fashion: An Unrecognized Contribution to Climate Change' in: Marcketti, Sara B. & Karpova, Elena E. (eds.) The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions, London & New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, pp.71 & https://www.greenpeace.org/international/story/62308/how-fast-fashion-fuels-climate-change-plastic-pollution-and-violence/

speakers:
鈥 脡milie Gandon, Mus茅e National de l鈥橦istoire de l鈥橧mmigration
鈥 In猫s Mesmar & Anastasia Spravedlyva, La Fabrique Nomade
鈥 Zed Zhipeng Gao, The American University of Paris

organisers:
鈥 Magali An Berthon, Assistant Professor, Fashion Studies, AUP
鈥 Renate Stauss, Associate Professor, Fashion Studies, AUP
鈥 Sophie Kurkdjian, Assistant Professor, Fashion Studies, AUP

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